Best supplì in Rome. Supplì have long been considered a staple of Roman cuisine. Legend has it that they were invented in the early 19th century, initially served as a poor man’s dish in osterie. Like many other traditional Roman dishes, it was a way to recycle leftovers. In the original recipe chicken offal was used to make a ragu which was then mixed with rice and deep-fried in boiling oil. Later, partly for taste reasons but mainly due to better socio-economic conditions, the chicken offal was replaced by minced meat. The mozzarella was added much later, around the mid-20th century, giving rise to supplì al telefono – so called because the melted cheese forms what looks like a telephone cable joining the two halves when the suppli is broken in two.

Nowadays suppli al telefono – usually eaten as a starter – are a standard item on the menu of every rotisserie and pizzeria in Rome, where the supplì tradition is upheld con amore.

APPIO LATINO

Sisini – La casa del Supplì

Sisini is an institution for anyone who spends any time in the Appio Latino district – an overflowing pizzeria/rotisserie serving a constant stream of pizzas by the slice, calzoni and first and second courses for those on the go. And the supplì – soft and aromatic with a light, non-greasy coating – is the house speciality. The rice comes in plenty of ragu with a real mozzarella heart. Make sure it’s come straight out of the fryer though. There’s another branch – known to Romans as “Venanzio” – in Trastevere, in Via San Francesco a Ripa 137.

Sisini, Piazza Re di Roma 20, Rome. Tel. 06 7049 1409

CIPRO

Pizzarium

Next to the Cipro metro station is this small pizzeria which serves by the slice, run by Gabriele Bonci – pizza chef, gourmet and maker of one of the finest pizzas anywhere in Rome. There’s also a constant supply of supplì being produced and nearly always a long queue at the counter waiting for the next batch to be brought out. Possibly our only gripe is the excessive amount of Parmesan cheese in the ragu.

Pizzarium, Via della Meloria 43, Rome. Tel. 06 3974 5416

CINECITTA’

Sforno

Just a stone’s throw from Cinecittà, this pizzeria owned by Stefano Callegari – nicknamed Er Sindaco (The Mayor) – is famous up and down the country because its Neapolitan pizza has been reviewed by every guidebook and magazine imaginable. But Sforno should get the credit it deserves for its supplì as well as the pizza. You can order a classic supplì with ragu if you want but this is possibly the best place in Rome to go for gourmet varieties. Make sure you try their Frascati e porchetta (white wine and roast pork) supplì and their alla gricia (cheese and bacon) supplì. They might cost a bit more but you won’t regret a cent of it.

Sforno, Via Statilio Ottato 110, Rome. Tel. 06 7154 6118

MONTEVERDE

Gatta Mangiona

In the heart of Monteverde is this restaurant serving gourmet supplì. Besides their light, tasty, sweet-smelling traditional supplì with ragu and mozzarella, you can also find a number of more refined variants. Supplì with baby plum tomato sauce, supplì with gorgonzola cream and herrings and – last but not least – supplì with saffron and wild asparagus. This place is highly recommended if you want to try something a bit different, just be prepared to spend a bit more.

La Gatta Mangiona, Via Ozanam 21, Rome. Tel. 06 534 6702

HISTORIC CENTRE

Supplizio

Slap bang in the middle of the historic centre in via dei Banchi Vecchi is this street food heaven owned by Arcangelo Dandini and Lorenzo D’Ettore. Traditional nosh from Rome and beyond rules here but the supplì – Dandini’s favourite food as a kid – are the real stars of the show. Served in a welcoming, rustic dining room with masonry walls, 1930s lamps and terracotta flooring, they come in bianco (white) and rosso (red) versions. You can also order smoked potato croquettes or fried custard with pecorino cheese, sugar and cinnamon (both €2 a pop), as well as various gourmet supplì, such as butter and anchovies, carbonara or cheese and pepper. All served in what looks like a cardboard egg box.

Supplizio, via dei Banchi Vecchi 143, Rome. Tel. 06 8987 1920