(Here the italian version) Let’s just begin with the amatriciana. It is one of the best in Rome, just unctuous enough, and with pieces of guanciale that remain beautifully crunchy within the perfectly cooked pasta. But the Osteria Fernanda is much more than just the amatriciana. To return after some time does nothing but confirm the quality of an ever-improving kitchen, for a modern and tranquil Osteria, and with a menu that is never banal, and a beautiful ambience as well. A rare pearl in Rome, and decisively undervalued.
We are at the beginning of the Portuense, in the Porta Portese area, between Testaccio and Trastevere. A couple of tables are out on the sidewalk and there are a few little internal rooms. Warm, comfortable, inviting. The walls are orange, with some bricks showing through, as well as an antique fresco. Around the tables, which are a little too close together, bustle the pleasant waiters and the owner, Andrea Marini. Behind the burners we find a young emerging talent, Davide Del Duca. We understand right away after glancing at the menu that he is not to be taken lightly, with a use of highly original ingredients and unusual combinations (which are not always successful but risks are always worth taking with this kind of cooking).
A welcome arrives immediately from the chef as well as a bread-basket with grissini (2 Euro). We peruse the menu. Looking through the appetizers we spot one of Fernanda’s strong plates, crunchy roman ricotta in pasta kataifi, with a rocket and walnut salad (delicious, 9 Euro). Following that, we try a vertical bruschetta with seasonal vegetables in different textures with a roasted porcini ice cream (12). A squid ink tempura of mussels, anchovies and squid with a tomato gratin gazpacho and marine asparagus (13). Scallops enrobed in lard with a potato, lemongrass and an asparagus emulsion (14). Veal tartar, monk’s beard (a particular type of salad), sour cream, and blue potatoes (14). Roasted octopus, with smoked eggplant, a tomato terrine in a balsamic apple gelee (13). Foie gras with a pistachio crust and a reduction of virgin marsala (15). For the first courses, aside from the amatriciana (11) there are egg yolk ravioli with meat, asparagus and a parmesan consomme (13 euro). Fresh pasta with squid ink, fresh raw fish and roasted dates (14 euro). A classic pasta, garlic, oil and chili peppers with seasoned fish roe (13). For second courses we recommend the beef fillet with manioca root, asparagus and salted blueberries (19).
Bonus: Two light tasting menus at 28 euro, the complete is 38. At lunch, the prices are reduced and there are fewer choices on the menu.
Malus: The tables are quite close together, and its very busy during the weekend.
And here are the votes from Puntarella:
Kitchen: 7
Service: 7
Ambience: 7
Osteria Fernanda – Via Ettore Rolli 1 – Tel. 06 589433. Il sito
(translated by Alida Borgna)